Installing Drawer Slides: Learn How to Install Replacement Drawer Slides in Five Easy Steps

When that drawer just won't slide anymore, it is time to replace the drawer slides. Make this DIY project quick and easy with this how-to tutorial complete with pictures and written instructions to guide you through the process. It is time to fix-it-yourself and get back to enjoying life.

Replacement Drawer Slides

Just contemplating the idea of how to install drawer slides is sometimes intimidating, but it is actually a fairly simple job. You can accomplish the task at hand in just a few minutes of your time.

Replacement Drawer Slides
Learn How to Install Replacement Drawer Slides in Five Easy Steps

What You Need

  • A screw driver or drill complete with a drill bit that fits the size of the screws in your project.
  • New drawer slides to fit your drawer and cabinet.
  • Screws

What You Do

Step # 1:

Remove the old drawer slides. There are usually screws on the inside that hold the slides to the cabinet. Start by removing the front screws. This can be tiring when you use a traditional screwdriver so you may want to use an electric drill if there is enough room for you to get the tool in the space.

Remove the old drawer slides
Remove the Old Drawer Slides

Step #2:

Next, remove the screws from the back bracket if there is one (not all drawer glides come with a back bracket). Some are applied to the backboard in the same way as they are screwed into the front. If the glide has a back bracket, this is another reason to remove the front screws first, as this makes it easier to remove the entire thing, allowing you to pull it forward when the time is right.

Remove the screws from the back bracket
Remove the Screws from the Back Bracket

Step #3:

Now that you have the cabinet glides removed, remove the glides attached to the drawer by removing all of the screws one by one. When you have them all removed, the glide should come off easily.

Removing screws one by one
Removing Screws One by One

Step #4:

Now that you have removed all of the old hardware, it is fairly simple to replace it with new pieces. Place the new hardware on the drawer section and look to see if the holes in the new hardware match the old holes. If they do not match, you will need to drill small pilot holes in order to start the screws. Screw the new glide into place, making sure to include all of the screws. An improperly screwed glide could come loose or even fall off and send you right back to where you started from.

Place new hardware on drawer section
Place New Hardware on Drawer Section

This should only take a few minutes if you pre-drill your holes. Be sure not to use a bit that is too large or your screws will not hold well.

  • Tip: You can use self-starting screws if you have the muscle to force the screws into the wood. This method is sometimes not worth the risk if the wood is prone to splitting.

Step #5

Replace the inside cabinet glide with the new pieces. Begin in reverse order by screwing in the back screws. Be sure to include all of the screws as this is a vital pressure point in the assembly.

Replace inside cabinet glide with new pieces
Replace Inside Cabinet Glide with New Pieces

  • Tip #1: These screws are sometimes in a difficult area to reach. You may want to use a magnetized screwdriver or driver bits for your drill. This can save you a ton of headaches as the screws tend to get lost during jobs like this.
  • Tip # 2: A flashlight would be handy in a spot like this, but it is difficult to hold one. You may want to try a head lamp like the ones found in the sporting goods section of department stores. These are lifesaving devices as they free up your hands.


Now it is time to try out your new drawer. Does it slide in properly? If not, then you need to troubleshoot the problem.

Try Out Your New Drawer
Try Out Your New Drawer

  • Did you position the glides correctly onto the drawer sides? If not, then you will have to reposition the glides. This may mean drilling new holes and redoing things, but it is worth the effort.
  • Are the cabinet brackets flush with the starting point of the old set? This is a common mistake. The new brackets may be a tiny bit shorter or longer than the old ones making the flush point different. If they are too long, you will have to return them and get a different size.
  • Is there a gap at the top of the drawer where it meets the cabinet that was not there before? This is uncommon, but it could mean the old glides were of a different thickness than the new ones. The difference would have to be huge in order to give you this kind of result.

If there is a difference in the old glides you removed and the new ones you installed, you may have to revert back to the old style or take the old ones with you and purchase a different set. Rarely is the difference in glides so severe that you would have to go to such great lengths to have a perfect drawer.


You can go from a misfit and broken drawer to a perfect drawer in no time flat. As these directions and tips help you in your efforts to fix your own drawers by replacing the drawer glides, feel free to bookmark this page for future reference.

Broken Drawer Glide
Broken Drawer Glide

Broken Drawer Glide
Fixed Drawers

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Easy Directions for How to Make a Decorative Wishing Well

When we think of yard decorations, wishing wells seem to always come up. These timeless traditional pieces make great conversation pieces, as well as another place to put your favorite plants. These easy to follow plans will have you enjoying your very own wishing well in mere hours.

How to Make a Decorative Wishing Well
How to Make a Decorative Wishing Well

A Historical Representation in the Garden Home

The wishing well in its traditional sense has always been a small pond fed by a stream or other sources. When in a public setting, history reveals that people have always tossed in coins and made wishes. Sometimes it was to a specific god or goddess, or to the gods in general. This depended on the culture and religious beliefs of the people. Where the wishing well was located had a lot to do with the traditions observed there.

One very famous wishing well is located in England at the northeastern tip of Northumberland county. This British well is called the well of Coventina. This well served the Roman British as well as the Celtic followers of Coventina. Traditionally, people passing by made requests or desired favor by throwing in coins which will have all time value. This well was found among temple remains and so the theory is that people were making offerings to the goddess Coventina.

Another famous well named Pen Rhys in Oxford, has been traditionally used by a people who do not recognize one specific god, but the vague notion of a higher power. Here, people have traditionally been known to throw in pieces of clothing or tokens to request cleansing from illness. They believe the waters of this wishing well offer cleansing powers.

So you see, there is much history behind the wishing well. In more modern times, people enjoy them as places of hope and also places to toss in coins that they are told will go to charity. The wishing well is remembered and romanticized in gardens all over the world in the form of the wooden representation of the water filled versions. Usually billowing forth from its bowels are gorgeous plants of nature that give a return of joy to all who pass by.

These directions show you how to make this wishing well, which is octagonally shaped. It is not only beautiful and interesting to look, at but also one of the easiest to build. The supplies you need are minimal.

Wishing Well - What You Will Need

(All wood is pressure treated or hard wood for outdoor durability)

  • 84- 14"x2"x3", (94' )--(4 of these are for the upper braces of the well; they need to be cut at 45 degrees on each end tapering inwards on each end to make the center 12", keeping the outer portion 14")
  • 4- 2"x3"x17"for the roof (cut 45degree angles in same direction on each end, to achieve parallel, with final length 17" from tip to tip)
  • 2-1"x4"x4' long pieces for the legs to the roof.
  • 14- 1"x4"x2' pieces for the roof of the well and the frame that supports it
  • 26" L x 1" diameter dowel stick
  • 130- 3" self starting screws
  • 24-1 1/2" self starting screws


  1. Saw of your choice
  2. Drill with screwdriver head to fit your screws or a screw driver
  3. Protractor or miter box
  4. Tape measure
  5. Pencil

Step #1

  • Begin this project by laying out four of your 14"x2"x3" pieces on a clean, flat surface .
  • Follow the diagram to find the correct placement.
  • This is a rough layout to start, but you will see it quickly comes together.

Step 1
Step 1

*Note: You are making an octagonal base.

Step #2

  • Next, place your second round pieces on top of the first, filling in the opposite sides of the octagon.
  • Follow the diagram closely for placement. 

Step 2
Step 2

  • Screw these pieces to the bottom round with 3" screws.
  • Repeat in this manner until you have completed all 10 rows.
  • Your last row will appear to go up and down all the way around.

Step #3

  • Now that your base is completed, you need to install your legs for the upper portion of the wishing well.

Step 3
Step 3

  • To do this, center up your 1"x4"x4' long leg along the side.
  • Screw into place using 3" screws using the diagram as your guide.

Step #4

  • Next, butt your 1"x4"x4' pieces together to create the base frame for the roof.
  • Keep each side parallel; make sure the side ends overlap so that you can screw the wood together from the side.
  • Screw together using 1 1/2" screws.

Step 4
Step 4

Step #5

  • Now, it is time to attach the frame you just made in step #4 to the legs for the roof.
  • To do this, you must find the center point on both the sides of the frame as well as the legs. Mark these for reference.
  • Attach with 3" screws in the locations indicated on the diagram.

Step 5
Step 5

Step #6

  • Next, butt together the 17"x2"x3" pieces to form the top of the roof angle.
  • Screw this together using 1 1/2" screws, following the diagram.

Step 6
Step 6

Step #7

  • Attach the upper roof frame to the bottom roof frame.
  • Follow the diagram for placement.
  • Secure with 1 1/2" screws.

Step 7
Step 7

Step #8

Finally, it is time to finish the roof. To do this, start at the bottom of the roof side, and attatch your 1"x4"x2' board to the frame with 1 1/2" screws. Leave an overhang of 1/2" only.

Only attach at the bottom, then proceed with overlapping the second slat 1/2" over that. Secure this with the screw that goes through the second slat from the bottom as well as the bottom slat.

Step 8
Step 8

Following the diagram, you can see how each section attaches to the next above it until you reach the top.

Repeat on the opposite, side and butt the two sides together at the top of the roof to make a tight seal. If you want a more watertight wishing well, run a thin line of clear waterproof caulking along the top of the roof.

Now that you know how to make a wishing well, you can make one for each of your friends. Set out some plants in your new garden art, and enjoy this lovely piece of history for years to come.


How-To Magic

When you know how to make things yourself, there is a sense of pride in that. When you find just the right instructions to help you in your adventure, that is a match made in Heaven. Dream Lands Design strives to bring you just that. Concise clear, visual instructions on things you want to know how to do.

  1. DIY Stylish Corner Computer Desk Plans
  2. Moving Made Easy: How to Pack a House
  3. DIY Plans for an Entertainment Center with Download
  4. Easy Directions for How to Make a Decorative Wishing Well

Moving Made Easy: How to Pack a House

Packing a house can seem like a monumental task. With 9 moving experiences under my belt, I understand there is much chaos that can result from packing haphazardly. The goal is provide you with helpful tips to get you moving.

Moving Made Easy
Moving Made Easy: How to Pack a House

There are specific dos and don'ts that can save you a lot of stress while packing up all of your worldly goods. These tips for packing furniture to move can help you avoid some major headaches in your moving process.

Overview of Items You Will Need

Here are some items you will need to ensure you are not running to the store every five minutes:

  • Suitcases for each of your family members and pets.
  • One or more coolers, paper plates and bowls, paper cups, plastic silverware, containers for leftover food, and baggies for sandwiches.
  • Boxes or plastic containers, bags, tags, moving tape and dispenser, permanent markers, and a small tool box with such items as a screwdriver, drill, hammer, pliers etc.
  • Packing peanuts, bubble wrap, newspaper, or old towels etc.
  • Old quilts or blankets, or rolls of painters plastic for packing the furniture.

1. Pack at Least One Suitcase for Each of Your Family Members, Including One for Each of Your Pets

This is very important. You will be unable to access most of your worldly goods for quite some time while you are moving. This is a great way to be sure you have all that you need. Be sure to pack all of the daily essentials, and enough clothes for a week or two. The suitcases go in your car not the moving van.

It is a good idea to pack a separate suitcase with shoes for the family. This solves the problem of trying to keep the dirty shoes separate from the clothes. If you must pack them together, consider placing your shoes in plastic or paper bags.

Remember to pack any medications with instructions or phone numbers for doctors in your handy bag or suitcase.

Be sure to include important documents you will need to retrieve easily, and items like extra checks etc. There is nothing more frustrating than needing an item like this and not having a clue where it is. Worse than that is knowing it is packed underneath the mass of boxes that used to be in your home.

2. Pack Food in at Least One Cooler

Having food handy is vital during the moving process. Not only will you save time and money, but this gives the entire family a sense of home. Pack this in your car or keep it with you. Do not pack your coolers in the moving truck.

By packing several coolers, you not only save your condiments and other items you spent hard-earned cash on, but you also make eating easier. Be sure to pack some easy to grab foods, such as pre-made sandwiches and drinks. Date them if you are worried about spoilage. Top off the ice daily, and you are set.

You can decide on giving some frozen food, or other items you cannot keep away to a food bank or a neighbor. Consider what items your freezer can be cooked in a couple of days on a portable stove top, and use this to keep the entire contents cold for a couple of days. You can also freeze water ahead in juice jugs and have a cooler that is cold for up to a week. Distilled water freezes the hardest. You can drink the water later, and it will be very cold and refreshing.

3. Choose the Boxes, Bags, or Plastic Containers Wisely

Now that you have your living items where you can access them, it is time to think about how you will pack up all of your other items. Think this through. Decide which items are going to need extra protection and consider packing them in plastic containers that can be reused later. Items that are off-season are good candidates for this.

Choose proper boxes
Choose proper boxes

Boxes of all sizes need to be acquired. If you wish to keep the size of box uniform, you would need to buy them from a moving company. Many stores will give you boxes for free. Finally, purchase some trash bags with handles. This allows you to tie them shut.

*Note: Lighter colored bags can be easily labeled with a permanent marker. Dark bags will need stick on labels or tags.

4. Don't Forget Labels and Tape

Once you have decided which type of packaging suits your stuff, you next need to either buy labels or tags, or purchase permanent markers. If you are using a mover, labels may be a way to clearly identify that the boxes are yours. If you are moving things yourself, markers may do the job and save you some money. Get creative, and consider using different colored permanent markers. Even the most reading challenged helper can easily identify colors. This makes unloading easier, and ensures your stuff reaches the proper room upon unloading.

5. Acquire Packing Materials for Breakables

It is important to pack your breakables carefully. This means either placing them in a box of peanuts, or wrapping them in newspapers. Some like to include breakable kitchenware in boxes of clothes. Although this is a workable plan, it causes problems when you get to your new home as the clothes need to go to a different room than the kitchen items. If the items remain in the same room as the clothes, there is no problem.

6. Make a List of All Off-Season Items

Be sure to make a list of all of the items you rarely use or that are off-season. This could include off-season clothes, sports gear, decorations, and more. Making this list ensures that all of the people involved in helping you pack know exactly what is top priority, and what can be boxed to retrieve at a later date. This makes your life easier and less stressful in the end.

You will want to pack your off-season items the same way that you pack everything else, keeping like with like. You do not want a hodgepodge of items in one box labeled off-season, but you want to divide it by where it goes. Example: Garage: Off-season tools. Be fairly specific. This will be a sanity saver later on.

7. Plan to Pack Valuables to Ship Separately

It is important to plan on shipping highly valuable items or items you could never replace by certified mail. Another option is to keep them locked in your personal vehicle. Highly valuable items need to be insured, especially if you hire a professional mover. Certified mail is the best option. Pack these items well and with much padding, as you want to have your treasures intact upon arrival.

8. Make a Note to Pack Furniture Last

The importance of packing your furniture last is vital. The problem with packing it first is, it is unpacked last at your destination. This does not work. If you unpack all of your boxes and smaller items first, they end up all over the place and often not in the designated rooms. This poses a problem as you are anxious to get the furniture out.

By waiting to pack your furniture last, not only do you have a place to sit and eat as you pack, but when you get to your new destination, it goes in the house first. This has several benefits. One, those moving the furniture can place it where you want it in an empty room. This helps you not to need it moved again later. Secondly, it gives you something to set some of your boxes on, and ensures that the big furniture will fit in the house. When the house is filled with items first, you end up squeezing the furniture in, and you have no room to walk - not a good scenario.

You can use quilts, blankets, or even painters plastic to protect your furniture from scrapes. Be sure to do this, as neglecting this would be a big and costly mistake. Also consider taking apart assembled furniture such as desks, shelves, beds etc.

9. Remember to do a Final Sweep of the House

Once you have all of your items in the moving truck or van, it is time to do a final sweep of the house. You can delegate a room to each family member. Be sure to have a checklist that guides them through the process to ensure few mistakes. Small children may not think to look up high and adults may forget to look under things. Work together, and cover every inch to ensure you do not lose an important piece of your life in the move.

Take one last look, and perhaps gather the family for a final photo of this change in your life, and off you go on a new adventure.

How-To Magic

When you know how to make things yourself, there is a sense of pride in that. When you find just the right instructions to help you in your adventure, that is a match made in Heaven. Dream Lands Design strives to bring you just that. Concise clear, visual instructions on things you want to know how to do.

  1. DIY Stylish Corner Computer Desk Plans
  2. Moving Made Easy: How to Pack a House
  3. DIY Plans for an Entertainment Center with Download
  4. Easy Directions for How to Make a Decorative Wishing Well

DIY Stylish Corner Computer Desk Plans - Step by Step How to Build a Desk

This corner desk has it all, vertical storage space as well as horizontal. These plans are detailed in a step-by-step layout to guide you through the process of building it yourself. Let's get started.

Stylish Corner Computer Desk
Corner Desk

DIY Computer Desk

Pre-Assembly Instructions

When building your DIY corner computer desk remember, it is important to pre-cut all of your pieces and gather all of your supplies. Have the area you intend to place the desk cleaned and ready to accept this massive desk. Unless you have a large doorway and strong helpers, moving this desk is a monumental task, so build on site.

You may ask, "Do I have to pre-cut my pieces?" No you don't, but it makes the process go much faster.

* Tip: Cutting off site is the smartest way to go. Utilize a garage or workshop for the prep work.

What You Will Need

3/4" Plywood or laminated wood

  • 4- 27 1/2" x19" cut pieces for the base legs (A)
  • 2- 281/4"x5 1/2" cut pieces for the center legs (B)
  • 2- 23 3/4"x8" cut pieces for the center leg braces (C)
  • 1- 111/4"x63/4" cut piece for the drawer front (D)
  • 2- 13 1/2"x4 3/4" cut pieces for the drawer sides (E)
  • 1- 8 1/8"x 4 3/4" cut piece for the drawer back (H)
  • 2- 20 3/4" cut pieces for the right desk top (G)
  • 6- 20"x9 3/4" cut pieces for the upper shelf legs (I)
  • 1-4'x4' Piece to cut out the desk center, and desk top center shelf out of (J,K)
  • 2- 20 3/4"x 9 3/4" cut pieces for the top shelf end pieces (L)
  • 2 14 3/4"x4" cut pieces for the keyboard side boards (N)
  • 1-24"x12" cut piece for the keyboard drawer (O)
  • 1- 20 3/4"x19 1/2" cut piece for the left side bottom (P)
  • 2- 15 1/2"x 17 3/4" cut pieces for the bottom instant shelves (Q)
  • 2- 17 3/4"x 9 1/4" cut pieces for the top instant shelves (R)
  • 1- 19 3/4"x 113/4" cut piece for the right side bottom (S)
  • 1-15 1/2"x 10 1/2" cut piece for the side door (T)

1/4" Plywood or laminated wood

  • 1-13 1/2"x8 1/8" cut piece for the drawer bottom (F)
  • 1-25 1/2"x 4'5" cut piece for the left side back panel (M)
  • 1- 25 1/2"x 21" cut piece for the right side back panel (M-2)

Miscellaneous Items Needed

  • 2- sets of 12" drawer slide
  • 1- decorative drawer pull
  • 2- hinges with 1/2" screws
  • 1- door latch (to be used to keep the side door closed)
  • 8- "T" brackets with 1/2" screws
  • 20 - "L" brackets with 1/2" in screws
  • 75 - 1" self starting screws
  • 2 - CD tower inserts
  • 16- small shelf brackets

Tools needed:

  • Circular saw, or table saw
  • Jig saw
  • Drill
  • Drill bits smaller than your screws
  • Drill bit with a 1/4" stop on it
  • Painters tape ( if you are using laminated wood)
  • Sander and medium- fine sandpaper ( if you are using plywood)

Step #1

To begin building your DIY computer corner desk, find the center leg pieces you precut. These are labeled (B). Butt them together and screw them together at the joint with 1" screws.

Step 1
Step 1

Next, measure down 3" from the end that will be the top. Place 2- 1" screws on each (B) panel, screwing this corner piece onto the center leg braces which measure (C).

* Tip: You can pre-drill a small pilot hole if you wish, but if you buy self starting screws it will make the process so much faster.

Step #2

Now that you have the center leg assembled, it is time to put together the left side leg. This leg sits on a platform which also doubles as a bottom shelf.

Start by placing the left side bottom piece (P) on the floor in the general area you wish the left side of your corner desk to be. You may need a helper to assemble the legs and the back piece.

To do this, begin by screwing the back panel (M) to the bottom piece (P), forming an "L" shape. The proper placement of the back panel is on center. Screw them together, keeping the back panel on the outer edge next to the floor, not on top of the bottom piece.

Step 2
Step 2

Now tip the bottom piece (P) on end, laying the back on the floor. Butt up the side panels (A) one at a time to the bottom piece, securing the piece with 1" screws. You will notice remaining room extending on the sides and front. You will have 1/4" on the outside edge. This is correct.

* Note: As you may have noticed by now, your assistant is invaluable to you. They will need to hold these pieces as you screw them together.

After you have secured the leg panels (A) to the bottom (P), it is time to raise the entire section back upright. Now screw the back panel to the legs with 1" screws to secure the whole section.

Step #3

Next, you will want to add the left desk top (G) to the unit. To do this, place the top on the bottom legs (A), keeping a slight overhang on the left and front. Make this the same as the bottom piece (P).

Step 3
Step 3

* Note: It will hang over considerably more towards the right or middle of the piece. This is what you want.

Now screw this down to the bottom legs with two 1" screws, making sure not to place them within 9" from the back panel.

Step #4

  • Now that you have your base for the left side complete, it is time to add the legs for the top shelf to the unit.
  • Secure the panels to the right desk top with 2 "L" brackets each. Follow the diagram for the placement.

Step 4
Step 4

* Note: The placement doesn't have to be exact, but it is a good idea to be consistent in the placement. Keeping the "L" brackets near the edges is best.

Step #5

Step 5
Step 5

  • Next, place the top shelf end piece (L) on top of the top legs (I).
  • Secure them with "L" brackets, following the diagram.
  • Continue securing by screwing the back to the back of the top shelf end (L). Use 1" screws and evenly space them along the top back edge of the shelf.

Step #6

  • Now it is time to connect the center leg to the left side leg unit.
  • To do this, butt the center leg section (C) up to the right side of left leg unit, connecting to section (A) with 1" screws.

Step 6
Step 6

  • Achieving proper placement requires measuring from the inside back of the section 8".
  • Next, measure from the floor to the base of section (C). Subtract 3/4" and that is where you should begin placing screws in the inside of section (A). Follow the diagram for proper placement.

Step #7

  • Continue by next assembling the right inside leg (A).
  • To do this, you will need to place the right side bottom (S) on the floor. Next, attach your leg (A) on the left side with "L" brackets. The allowance on that edge is 1/4" and flush with the back. 

Step 7
Step 7

  • Next, screw the leg to the center section. Follow the specific directions for finding the placement of the screws in step #6. Continue to refer often to the diagram.
  • Lastly on step #7, you need to attach the left drawer slide while you can get to it. The placement of this is 5 1/4" from top of leg (A).

How-To Magic

When you know how to make things yourself, there is a sense of pride in that. When you find just the right instructions to help you in your adventure, that is a match made in Heaven. Dream Lands Design strives to bring you just that. Concise clear, visual instructions on things you want to know how to do.

  1. DIY Stylish Corner Computer Desk Plans
  2. Moving Made Easy: How to Pack a House
  3. DIY Plans for an Entertainment Center with Download
  4. Easy Directions for How to Make a Decorative Wishing Well


Automatic Potted Plants Watering System : Keep the Greenery on Your Patio Green - Even When You are Away

There is no reason to sacrifice all of your hard work and beautiful plants when you go away for a few days in the hot summer. Here are four simple ways to keep your plants well watered while you are away.

Keep the Greenery on Your Patio Green
How can I water my patio plants while on vacation?

Automatic Patio Potted Plants Watering System

When vacation preparations are under way, the question, "How can I water my patio plants while on vacation?" always seems to come up. The answer is a varied one. There are several ways you can go about this. Here are four distinct ways to keep your plants alive and watered.

  1. Add water crystals or sodium Polyacrylate crystals to the soil. These magical beads soak up water to be used for later in the pot. When the plant needs water these crystals pop and release the much needed moisture to the thirsty plant.
  2. Watering trays, filled with rocks and water are great bottom watering devices.
  3. You can always place a drip system fully equipped with a timer and connected to your external tap to get the job done.
  4. A sturdy jug and a cotton string make a good and inexpensive watering system for any plant.

Sodium Polyacrylate Crystals

This is a very easy way to take the situation into your hands. Just add a scoop or two of these water absorbing beads, no more than a 1/1 ratio to the potting soil when you pot the plant.

Happy Flower
Happy Flower

If you wish to add them to an existing plant you may need to re-pot the plant and add the crystals into the new soil at that time. It would be very difficult to get any crystals mixed into an existing pot without damaging something. It is just about impossible. So, re-pot and have the success you always wanted.

Watering Trays

This also is very easy to do. Find a waterproof tray that can hold all of your plants with extra room around the plants. It should be twice as big as all of your plants combined if you are using a big tray to place many plants on. In the case of one pot, it just needs to be deep enough to hold a significant amount of water after setting the existing pot inside of it.

You can place pebbles all in the bottom of the tray if the plants do not like their roots soggy.

Another way to achieve this is to place your plants in the bathtub if there is a window nearby with significant light. The only other option you have is to securely place a grow light above the bathtub to shine down fake sunshine on your plants while you are away. You fill the tub with several inches of water, and voila!

Drip Systems

You can always install a drip system with a timer to your outdoor plants. If paying the price goes against every fiber in your body, you can always drill holes where you want it to drip on your plants, but you still will need to purchase a timer. You can find these at any hardware, or department store in the spring and summer.

Jug and String System

This system is easy to make and here are some step-by-step directions to get you on your way.

Step #1:

To add to the moisture retaining ability of the pot, it is a good idea to add some rocks to the bottom. There are two main reasons. It ensures the dirt has a better chance of staying put, and rocks by nature absorb moisture, saving it for later. This is always a good thing to do. Some modern gardeners have said it is not necessary but it seems like a good inexpensive way to add moisture to your pots.

Line the pot with rocks
Line the pot with rocks

Step #2:

Drill a hole into the top of the lid of your jug. This needs to be big enough to allow the string to go through but tight enough to keep bugs out. It needs to be a very snug fit.

Drill a hole into top of jug
Drill a hole into top of jug

Step #3:

Thread a rope through the cap. This needs to be a cotton type rope. Pull enough through so the string can reach the bottom of the jug. Leave enough left over to reach your pot and go down and under the plants.

Thread a string through the cap
Thread a string through the cap

Step #4:

Secure the lid tightly to prevent evaporation. You will have to open it to refill it so be sure to not secure it so tight it is impossible to remove later.

Secure the lid tightly to prevent evaportion
Secure the lid tightly to prevent evaportion

Step #5:

Position the jug near the plant. This jug was hug from the lattice with plastic coated heavy duty twist ties. This will allow the jug to remain in the shade and for the rope to reach the plant without having to travel great distances. The longer the distance the more room for evaporation of the water out of the string.

Position the jug near the plant
Position the jug near the plant

Step #6:

Now you will want to run the string up and into the planter. Be sure to run the string down and along the bottom of the pot. This will allow the plant to drink when it gets thirsty.

Run the string up and into the pot and along the bottom
Run the string up and into the pot and along the bottom

Step #7:

Place your plants in the pot over the string. Backfill with potting soil.

Add your plants
Add your plants

Step # 8:

Top the soil with pond pebbles to further keep in moisture and prevent the soil from washing away in heavy rains. Water the plant thoroughly and also soak the string to get the whole process started.

Top the soil with rocks
Top the soil with rocks

Enjoying Your Creation

Learning how you can water your patio plants while on vacation will give you hours of enjoyment out of them when you get home. You can always hire a neighbor kid to come water your plants but there is just something about doing things yourself that is an achievement all its own.

Stand back and enjoy your creation!
Stand back and enjoy your creation!

Stand back and enjoy your creation knowing that they will still be here come rain or shine.

How-To Projects for Your Yard and Garden - Make Life More Fun!

Why live with boring when you can spice life up just a little bit with your own creations in the yard and garden. These easy, step-by-step visually enticing articles are sure to get your creative juices flowing in no time! If you can dream it, you can do-it-yourself. Go on, make life more fun!

  1. Build Your Own Frame Yard Swing
  2. Keep the Greenery on Your Patio Green, Even When You are Away


How to Make Your Own frame Yard Swing in Front Yard Garden

This yard swing has stood the test of time and will make a wonderful addition to your yard, as it did to mine. The easy instructions give step-by-step pictures and instructions for the process.

Build Your Own Frame Yard Swing
Build Your Own Frame Yard Swing

Front Lawn Landscaping

Who doesn't love sitting in their yard in a swing, sipping ice tea and feeling the summer breezes blow? These directions show how to make a frame yard swing that will stand the test of time. It is strong, easy to build, and will last for years - as mine has.

Supplies You'll Need

  • 7 (4"x4"x10') Pressure treated.
  • 1 (4"x4"x6') Pressure treated.
  • 1 3 (1"x4"x6') Pressure treated.
  • 1 (2"x4"x5') Pressure treated.
  • 2 L brackets with screws.
  • 10 large bolts.
  • 10 nuts to fit the bolts.
  • 10 large washers to fit over the bolts tightly but extending past the bolt head a 1/4 of an inch to 1/2 inch.(These need to be larger in circumference than the bolts.)
  • Approximately 75 self starting small-medium sized screws.(..preferably some that won't rust.)
  • 4 large S hooks
  • 2large heavy duty eye bolts.
  • 4 large heavy duty hooks with only a slight opening.
  • 20-25 ft of swing chain.
  • 2 bags of cement.
  • Drill
  • Drill bits to fit the bolts.
  • Screw driver or driver bit for your drill to match the screws you purchased.
  • Wrench or pliers
  • Hacksaw
  • Jigsaw 


This swing goes together very easily.

Step 1

First you need to cut a notch 4" wide approximately 12" down from each end of your top post and 12" down from one end of both of your side posts. This will be a notch and they will fit together like a "T".

The legs span 60" wide with the side two angled towards the middle post. Bury these approximately three feet deep and backfill the holes with cement. This provides a strong foundation. You get your angles after you place the center post in the ground. This will take several people to do. Do a mock leaning of the post, and mark the line to cut. This is the easiest way to get a true angle that fits with the holes that you dug.

If you are off by a small amount it will not affect your angle cuts negatively. Cut the angles before placing the bracing legs into the ground. Bring the angled legs to the main post, and screw it in place with several screws. Repeat this for the other side. Having several people, ensures the center post stays level and plum. Use your level to guarantee perfection. Let both sides harden in the ground before you place the top on. 

  • The center post will be approximately 8' above ground and buried 2' in the ground.
  • The side posts are 5'4" above ground and three feet in the ground, totaling 8'.4" 

Step 2

If you have several strong people to help you, you can place the top beam on before the cement dries. If not, you may want to wait until the cement hardens. Secure the top beam and side beam together by drilling a hole straight through them both. Then place your bolt through the large washer (has a small hole), through both beams, and secure in place with a nut. Tighten with a wrench or pliers.

Step 3

Next you need to cut the angle braces. Either place them on the inside and screw them in or notch them out on the backside to give extra strength. If you plan to notch them out, the braces are approximately 28 3/4" from tip to tip. You will need to cut a 29" piece and draw your angles using the outside of structure to guide you. If you choose not to notch them, then draw your angles by the inside of the frame on the top and bottom.

Notching requires removing the same amount of thickness from both the pieces you plan to fit together. Keep the width the same as the width of each piece. Since these beams are all 4" square, there are no odd sides to worry about.

Do not remove more than half the width of any single board as this will weaken the structure instead of reinforcing it. Secure with bolts just like you did before when you attached the top to the sides.

Step 4

Now frame the swing itself. Cut the top back frame board to 54". Each side piece will be15 " and the bottom piece is 52 3/4". This is the back for the back framing.

The 15" side pieces are tapered to 2 1/2 inches at the bottom. Start 4 inches up and draw a line to the end making it taper. This tilts the back to a comfortable angle. Cut both sides this way.

Yard swing instructions step 1 - 6

Place the top piece on a flat surface, standing up on end. Place the side pieces underneath the edges and screw down from the top.Then 6 1/2" up from the bottom insert the bottom of the frame on the inside of the piece. Screw it together from the outside in. This makes the frame for your back.

Step 5

Next you will frame the bottom of the seat. Start by cutting the front edge board and the back bottom edge board 59". The side pieces and middle brace are all 19" cut out of 2x4s.

Screw these together by measuring from the edge the width of your 1x4 - which usually is not exactly 4" but rather 3 3/4" Use a piece of your wood to measure in from the edges of both the front and back seat pieces. Make a mark on each end of both the front and back boards. Screw your side pieces, front and back to the outside 1x4's. 

If you want a curve to the seat, cut that into the side pieces and middle brace before screwing it all together. Keep the top flush as the seat boards need to have matching edges to keep it smooth. If you lower the side pieces and middle brace, then you will have an uneven surface to screw to and it will sag in places. The frame needs to fit flush.

Step 6

Now you screw the bottom frame and back frame together using the L brackets. This gives you the angle you need and you now can screw your arm into place. The piece of the arm that goes down the front needs to be12" long, cut from the 1x4's. The armrest is 26" and the back piece of the arm is also 12".

Swing Instructions Step 5 - 7

Bolt the front piece onto the bottom frame. Continue with the back piece. Bolt it to the back of the seat frame. Now place the armrest on top and screw it to the front and back pieces. Drill a 1 1/2-2" hole on the inside of the arm just inside the front panel.

Do the same on the back panel. Keep these holes to the inside as this is where your chain will need to go through. You can straight cut or round the edges. The swing is fully functional either way. The style is up to you.

Step 7

Now it's time to place the back slats and seat slats on the frame. Starting with the seat, you cut six 1"x4"'s to a length of 54" or 41/2 feet. Secure the seat slats with screws to the end boards and center brace.

Attach all of the back slats keeping the bottom edge flush to the bottom of the bottom of the back framing. The top will be rectangle shaped. If you want this curved, make a mark on each edge at 11 1/2" from the bottom. then 7 slats in for your middle point.

Use a string and a pencil and have someone hold the string on the bottom center of the 7th board and draw a curve from the outer marking on the last slat of 11 1/2" and it will gradually get taller finally merging with the 18 " center. 

Repeat in the other direction to get the other half done the same way. Now that you have a curve drawn, use a jigsaw and cut the tops along that line. This is how you get that curve. The finished swing will look something like above pictures in step 7 from the side.

Finishing Touches

Now it is time to install the hardware that will hold your swing above the ground and from the nice frame you just built.

Finishing Touches

Trim any bolts so that they do not stick out and become a hazard to someone. You can do this with a hack saw or any tool you find appropriate.

Install the hooks that will hold the chain at the bottom of the arms. Thread your chain through the holes you made in the top of the arm.

Attach these two chains to an S hook . Screw in the two eye bolts into the top of the frame. Attach your remaining connecting chain to an S hook at the top and the S hook holding the two chains together. Víola! You now have a swing that will last you for years and years.

All that is left to do is paint or stain it. Since it is pressure treated, you can leave it if you wish. It is best to finish the wood, as the sun will damage the wood and moisture in shade can deteriorate the wood also.

Here are free drawings to guide you through the process and give you a closer view of what you need to do. Be sure to read swing set plans below, Yard swing - page one and Yard swing - page two of the directions.

Yard swing - page one
Yard swing - page one

Yard swing - page two
Yard swing - page two

How-To Projects for Your Yard and Garden - Make Life More Fun!

Why live with boring when you can spice life up just a little bit with your own creations in the yard and garden. These easy, step-by-step visually enticing articles are sure to get your creative juices flowing in no time! If you can dream it, you can do-it-yourself. Go on, make life more fun!

  1. Build Your Own Frame Yard Swing
  2. Keep the Greenery on Your Patio Green, Even When You are Away

Fun and Easy Garden Arbor Ideas and Plans

Thinking of building, or buying a garden arbor? Here are some garden arbor ideas for your patio or garden area.

Fun and Easy Garden Arbor Ideas and Plans
Fun and Easy Garden Arbor Ideas and Plans

Arbor Garden

Having an arbor or trellis in your yard is a fun, and an easy way to create a focal point to your home or garden. Consider the layout of your garden before buying or building an arbor. Arbors traditionally function as an entranceway or gateway to another entrance.

You can either build your own, or buy pre-crafted kits to put together; there are garden arbor ideas for plans to include benches, gates, planter boxers or even placement for a swing.

Different Kinds of Garden Arbors

Arbors can be made from many different materials wood, copper, metal, wrought iron, and vinyl. There are also many different style designs to choose from which may include gothic, gable, arch, pergola and many others. You can build garden arbors yourself, or buy them already hand-crafted.

  • Wooden garden arbors will give your garden a timeless elegance, with climbing roses growing on an arched wooden arbor or used as a wedding arbor. They can be affordably built and painted to your liking or you can weather wood arches, giving them a timeless aged look. Wooden arbors can be built from different types of wood to enhance your garden including: red cedar, redwood, or mahogany built with a flat, curved or arched header.

Wooden garden arbors
Wooden garden arbors

  • Vinyl garden arbors a lightweight alternative to a wood arbor with less upkeep. They don’t need to be painted, sealed or resealed to maintain their looks, and they look like real wood. They won’t crack, even after years of use.
  • Metal garden arbors give the garden a noble baroque style. Metal arbors show off garden climbers without being pretentious. Metal arbors are long lasting and strong, but need a durable metal such as aluminum, steel or iron or will rust quickly outdoors.

Metal garden arbors
Metal garden arbors

  • Pergola garden arbors may be simple with just an overhang structure attached to the back of the house to keep all your begonias, fuchsia, and petunia in hanging pots becoming a focal point of your yard and garden for entertaining. You can include a paved patio or path area with outdoor plants for a beautiful patio setting. A pergola arbor can be screened in or have a cover over it for more shade.

Pergola garden arbors
Pergola garden arbors

Take into consideration your home and landscape when building an arbor. An arbor will bring great beauty to your surroundings for years to come.

Flowers for Garden Arbors

The best part of having a trellis or garden arbor is having climbing plants. Your garden comes alive when you have climbing vines, and plants. Before you put up your arbor think about the kind of plants you want to grow on your garden arbor. 

Flowers Garden Arbors
Garden Arbors Flower

Choose an arbor or garden trellis that will support the vines so they will grab on and naturally grow. Consider the area for your garden arbor, and if it’s a sunny area for climbing flowers you want on your garden arbor.

  • Black-eyed susan vine
  • Nasturtium
  • Morning glory
  • Climbing Hydrangea
  • White Jasmine
  • Bougainvillea vine
  • Clematis
  • Wisteria

Climbing roses are popular, but wisteria is always a good choice for garden arbor ideas, and will take over your garden arbor in no time. Make sure this is a permanent area for your plants as you don’t want to move them around a lot. Plant normally, but use a twist tie in the beginning to hold in place to train the vines to do their job, checking for new growth regularly.